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The Jewelry of Louis Comfort Tiffany

By , About.com Guide

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Louis Comfort Tiffany's Art Jewelry
Tiffany Peacock Necklace

Tiffany Peacock Necklace, ca. 1903-06, on Display at the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of Art in Winter Park, Florida

Photo by Jay B. Siegel
Louis Comfort Tiffany continued the tradition of offering unique jewelry the patrons of Tiffany & Co. had come to expect when he took over the company in 1902 after his father, Charles Lewis Tiffany, died. His vision for expanding the company's adornment business was different, however, than the elegant extravagance of his father's era using precious jewels obtained from European royalty. Tiffany's "art jewelry," as Louis Tiffany referred to it, largely reflected the themes and style of Art Nouveau movement, the hand craftsmanship of Arts and Crafts wares, and elements gleaned from exotic objects he admired, melded beautifully together.

Louis Comfort Tiffany ensured that the colors and Art Nouveau style that made his glass a form of artistry would be transferred into wearable creations. According to the Charles Hosmer Morse Musuem, he used primarily semiprecious stones and enameling in the 750 art jewelry pieces sold through his family's business. Tiffany's newly established art jewelry and existing enameling departments were closely linked as each piece of jewelry was designed and crafted with impeccable detail.

The enamels were formed using a glass-like paste applied to metal and high heat, a process the company perfected in 1898 and also used on Tiffany's Favrile pottery. These enamels offered color options for jewelry manufacture outside the norm. While Louis didn't actually create the jewelry, it was produced by talented jewelers under his supervision and some, like the peacock necklace shown above, were produced from his own design sketches.

The peacock necklace was crafted by jeweler Julian Munson (Sherman) for exhibition between 1903 and 1906. It is now a part of the Tiffany jewelry installation at the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of Art in Winter Park, Florida. Comprised of enamel, opal, amethyst, ruby, sapphire, demantoid garnet, emerald, chrysoberyl and gold, this is the most important existing work in this medium. The front medallion features a peacock mosaic of opals and enamels surrounded by amethysts and sapphires. According to the Morse Museum, exhibition pieces like this one were finished on both sides, and the back of this necklace features an enameled design of pink flamingoes.

See page two to view the back of the peacock necklace.

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